They — foodies, the culinary press, first-time visitors and those who’ve returned many times — say, “We went back to Alan Wong’s three times while we were there.” They say, “Did you read about Roy’s latest opening?” They say, “Chef Mavro has his own place now and you’ve just GOT to go there.”

And local folks? They say, “Ey! You checked out Sam’s yet? Pleeennny food and it’s onolicious!” They say, “That Russell Siu, he knows what local people like. We took my mother to 3660 for her birthday and she loved it!” They say, “Have you tried the wine bar at Padovani’s? You can taste some great wines without having to buy the bottle.”

Those same foodies also used to say that most of Hawai‘i’s most interesting restaurants, with a few notable exceptions, were on the Neighbor Islands. But that’s not true anymore, either.

Chefs such as Wong, Jean-Marie Josselin, Goran Streng, D.K. Kodama and others have made the short hop over to Hawai‘i’s capitol island in recent years, and the competition has been nothing but good for diners.

Although these are our selections for the best among the Islands’ fine dining establishments, visitors will find that Hawai‘i style applies. French style and techniques are often employed but it’s the fresh local ingredients that shine under the chefs’ masterful executions.

Only one of these restaurants (La Mer) requires that men wear jackets. The tastes and ingredients are influenced by local preferences (steamed white rice, soy-based sauces, fresh fish and sea vegetables, potent fruit flavors). And everyone — local or visitor — is made to feel comfortable, relaxed and bathed in the aloha spirit.

3660 on the Rise (CC, PC) The specialty here is simply delicious food, sparkling with tasty flavors, reflective of the Islands’ ethnic stew. Chef Russell Siu still serves excellent ‘ahi katsu; his New York steak alae‘a is a well-kept secret and his macadamia nut-crusted rack of lamb is superb. Pastry chef Lisa Siu’s homestyle bread pudding, chocolate souffle cake and mile- high Wai‘alae pie are ‘Ilima Award winners. Bustling bistro-like atmosphere, attentive service, martini nights and special events make this the happening spot in Kaimuki. 3660 Wai‘alae Ave.; 737-1177. Dinner: 5:30-9 p.m. Sunday, Tuesday-Thursday; 5:30-10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Euro-Island cuisine. Reservations recommended. VS, MC, AX, DC, DS, JCB. No checks. $$.

A Pacific Cafe (CC, PC)

Chef Jean-Marie Josselin runs a sophisticated establishment with excellent service and ambitious dishes. The grilled foie gras appetizer served with an aromatic fennel and quince salad, for example, should not be missed. Josselin, who gained fame with the first Pacific Cafe, in Kaua‘i, has a style that nicely balances refinement with punch — a silky sauce will have a chili-peppery kick, for example, or a classic French preparation will be made with unexpected ingredients. Dining here is the definition of upscale comfort. Ward Centre, 1200 Ala Moana Blvd.; 593-0035. Dinner: 5:30-10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday; 5-10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Pacific Island cuisine with a French twist. Reservations recommended. VS, MC, AX, DC, DS, JCB. No checks. $$$.

Aaron’s Atop the Ala Moana (PC, I)

This popular club offers breathtaking views from the Ala Moana Hotel’s 36th floor and serves dinner only, seven nights a week. Try the baked oysters alla Francis, topped with tarragon-Pernod cream sauce and crispy pancetta bacon. The diver sea scallops are outstanding as well. There are several private dining options for special occasions or groups, including a cozy and romantic room walled in wine. It can be pretty lively here; ask to be seated away from the dance floor if you want to linger over dinner. Top Floor, Ala Moana Hotel, 410 Atkinson Drive; 955-4466. Dinner: 5:30-11:30 p.m. daily; late-night menu: 11:30 p.m.-1 a.m. American/Continental cuisine. Reservations recommended. VS, MC, AX, DC, DS, JCB. Checks accepted. $$$.

Alan Wong’s Restaurant (CC, PC, I)

The accolades never stop for this fine example of local food flavors prepared with whimsical attitude and lots of French style, then served in a superlative, unstuffy manner. Consistently good even when the eponymous Alan Wong is not at the front of the line. Graze on appetizers including California rolls and tempura ‘ahi. For entrees, the signature ginger-crusted onaga and mahimahi with wasabi cream never disappoint. For dessert, don’t miss the macadamia nut crunch bars made in house. Absolutely Hawai‘i’s finest restaurant. Top Floor, 1857 S. King St.; 949-2526. Dinner: 5-10 p.m. daily. Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine. Reservations recommended. VS, MC, AX, JCB. No checks. $$$.

Alfred’s Restaurant at Century Center (CC) Alfred’s has been offering Old World, Swiss-influenced and Euro-style dining for more than 22 years. The Chinook salmon appetizer is comprised of lightly smoked salmon slices surrounded by tomato, lemon, capers and assorted breads. Go for any of the veal dishes for dinner, and the strawberries Romanoff (marinated in Grand Marnier) for dessert.  The lights are low in the dining room while classical music wafts throughout. 3rd Floor, Century Center, 1750 Kalakaua Ave.; 955-5353. Lunch: 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Tuesday-Friday. Dinner: 6-10 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday. Swiss-inspired European cuisine. Reservations recommended. VS, MC, AX, DC, DS, JCB. Checks accepted. $$.

Chai’s Island Bistro (CC, PC) Chef Chai Chaowasaree’s bistro sparkles because of its Pacific Rim flavors that are bold but delectably balanced. Although his background is Thai, the menu here ranges far afield. Kataifi and macadamia nut-crusted prawns and salmon tartare are winners, as are the Mongolian lamb chops and crispy whole moi. The mousse-like chocolate pyramid by pastry chef JJ is a must. A relaxed tropical atmosphere, indoor-outdoor seating and entertainment by some of Hawai‘i’s most respected contemporary Hawaiian musicians all add up to a fine dining experience. Aloha Tower Marketplace; 585-0011. Lunch: 11 a.m.-4 p.m. weekdays. Dinner: 4-10 p.m., daily. Hawai‘i Regional/Pacific Rim cuisines. Reservations strongly recommended. VS, MC, AX, DC, JCB. No checks. Lunch: $$; Dinner: $$$.

Chef Mavro (CC, PC)

Meticulous attention to ingredients, preparation and presentation are the passion of French-trained chef George Mavrothalassitis, who takes great pleasure in keeping food simple yet dramatically flavorful, changing the menu frequently. Unfrilly plates are vivid reminders of the sumptuous food you’re here for: ‘ahi tartare topped with sevruga caviar, salt-crusted onaga and malassadas with liliko‘i curd, each dish painstakingly paired with wine. The restaurant is tastefully decorated in a nouveau Hawai‘i style; a dining experience that ranks with the best in America today. 1969 S. King St.; 944-4714. Dinner: 6-9:30 p.m. Tuesday-Sunday. French/Hawai‘i Regional cuisines. Reservations recommended. VS, MC, AX, DC, JCB. No checks. $$$.

Diamond Head Grill (CC)

There’s a sophisticated but playful ambience to this dining room in the trendy W Hotel-Waikiki. As we write this, a new chef is being appointed so changes are in store, but the menu will undoubtedly remain creative and interesting. Fuji apple-crusted ‘ahi topped with foie gras with braised red cabbage is a treat; guava and mustard-crusted rack of lamb is boldly flavorful. Appetizers are noteworthy at the sweeping marble-topped bar. One of Waikiki's hot spots for food and fun (there’s nightly entertainment). W Hotel-Waikiki, 2nd Floor, 2885 Kalakaua Ave.; 922-3734. Breakfast: 7-10 a.m. daily. Lunch, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. weekdays. Dinner: 6-10 p.m. daily. Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine. Reservations recommended. VS, MC, AX, DC, DS, JCB. No checks. $$$.

Duc’s Bistro (CC)

A French/New Orleans-inspired menu with a few hints of the owner’s Vietnamese background is what’s on here. You’ll especially appreciate this place if you’re a wine lover; sommelier Danny Matsushita will guide you with informed suggestions. The duck Beaulieu salad is excellent, as are the Chesapeake Bay crab cakes with a buttery, creamy sherry-laced thermidor sauce. The seafood feuillete Joinville enfolds seafood (shrimp, scallops, morels, and shiitakes) into a flaky puff pastry shell.  In the evenings, there’s piano music to accompany the dining experience. 1188 Maunakea St.; 531-6325. Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. weekdays. Dinner: 5-10 p.m. daily. French/Vietnamese cuisine. Reservations recommended. VS, MC, AX, DC, DS, JCB. Checks accepted. $$.

Hoku’s (CC, I)

When you want to dine in a high-energy, ultra-contemporary room, feasting on sumptuous, elegantly presented morsels, you’ll find them at this “star” (that’s what hoku means) at the Kahala Mandarin Oriental Hawai‘i. Chef Wayne Hirabayashi’s ‘ahi preparations are impeccable, his ‘ahi musubi especially whimsical. Crisp, fried whole fish and braised short ribs are elegant but comforting. The open kitchen is a delight to watch; the tandoori oven breads terrific; the spectrum of Asian flavors delicious and the service outstanding. Kahala Mandarin Oriental Hawai‘i; 739-8780. Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. weekdays. Brunch: 10:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Sunday. Dinner: 5:30-10 p.m. daily. Eclectic menu with Isle ingredients. Reservations strongly recommended (especially for Sunday brunch). VS, MC, AX, DC, DS, JCB. Checks accepted. $$$.

Hy’s Steak House (CC, PC) Hy’s is a smooth and classy operation. It retains the look and feel of the once-ubiquitous gentleman’s steakhouses of the go-go martini lunch days, and it’s got the service and menu to match. It’s dimly lit and richly appointed with tuxedoed waiters who are warm and engaging, never stuffy.  The prime-rated steaks are broiled over kiawe wood, giving them a rich smokiness.  The Caesar and warm spinach salads are prepared tableside. Classics such as beef Wellington and oysters Rockefeller are part of the retro experience here. 2440 Kuhio Ave.; 922-5555. Dinner: 6-10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday; 6-11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Steak/seafood. Reservations strongly recommended. VS, MC, AX, DC, DS, JCB. Local checks accepted. $$$.

John Dominis Restaurant (PC)

For O‘ahu folks, John Dominis is synonymous with special occasions, memorable for the mesmerizing view of Diamond Head, the quality (and, in the case of the sumptuous Sunday brunch, the quantity) of the food and the koi pond that weaves its way through the restaurant. John Dominis chefs visit the fish auction daily and design special dishes to complement whatever's most enticing each morning. The rest of the menu balances tradition with trend: classic continental preparations alongside a vegetarian grilled vegetable platter and Szechwan-style moi. 43 ‘Ahui St.; 523-0955. Dinner: 6-9 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 5:30-9:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday; 6-9 p.m. Sunday. Sunday Brunch: 9 a.m.-1 p.m. Seafood-focused menu. Reservations recommended. VS, MC, AX, DC, JCB. Checks accepted. $$$.

La Mer (PC)

Transport haute French cuisine to Hawai‘i and marry it with fresh Island ingredients for the ultimate in luxurious dining overlooking Waikiki Beach: That’s La Mer. Chef Yves Garnier’s neo classic style spares nothing in re-creating the flavors and textures of his Mediterranean background: crispy skin onaga fillet and kumu in salt crust are superb for their delicacy and perfection. These are equaled only by dessert presentations like the Island fantasy and painter’s palette of sorbets. This is a dining gem where formality reigns (virtually the only property left where jackets or long-sleeved dress shirts are required for men). Halek¨lani Hotel, 2199 Kalia Road; 923-2311. Dinner: 6-10 p.m. daily. French Neo-classic cuisine. Reservations strongly recommended. VS, MC, AX, DC, JCB, DS. No checks accepted. $$$.

L’Uraku (CC) Entering L’Uraku, you realize something special about the character of the light in this room. The place glistens.  And the food, East-West with the accent heavily on the East, is contagiously delicious. Don’t miss chef Hiroshi Fukui’s baked oyster stuffed with crab and avocado, the oven-baked crabmeat sandwich, marinated lamb chops, or any of the fresh fish entrees. A great way to sample this restaurant is the $15 “Weekender” lunch, available on Saturdays and Sundays, a 4-course introduction to a very worthy dining experience. 1341 Kapi‘olani Blvd.; 955-0552. Lunch: 11 a.m.-1:45 p.m. daily. Dinner 5:30-9:45 p.m. daily. Euro-Japanese. Reservations required for large parties, recommended for others. VS, MC, AX, DC, JCB, OliOli. No checks. $$.

Michel’s (PC, I)

The favorite French restaurant of many in Honolulu, Michel’s offers an incredible sunset view from its dining room right over the beach (one of very few fine dining restaurants in the Islands where you can actually hear the waves). Order the lobster bisque, elegantly finished and flambeed with Cognac tableside. The salad of Parma prosciutto starts with the wonderful ham of Parma, Italy, sliced paper-thin and assembling with hearts of palm, Kamuela tomatoes, roasted sweet peppers and buffalo mozzarella drizzled with pesto. Service is superb. Colony Surf Condominiums, 2895 Kalakaua Ave.; 923-6552. Dinner: 5:30-9:30 p.m. daily. French continental cuisine. Reservations recommended. VS, MC, AX, DC, DS, JCB. Checks accepted. $$$.

Neptune’s Garden (PC, I)

This is the upscale sibling of the three-restaurant Pacific Beach Hotel in Waikiki. The new executive chef, Eric Leterc, has recently revamped the menu, in an approach he calls “Hawaiian bistro style.” This may be one of the most tranquil and serene settings in all of Honolulu because of its proximity to the hotel’s showpiece 280,000-gallon oceanarium. In addition to the lovely visuals, New Age music is played at a very low level, allowing whisper quiet conversation to take place during dinner. Pacific Beach Hotel, 2490 Kalakaua Ave.; 921-6112. Dinner: 5:30-9:30 p.m. daily. Seafood, steak, bistro, Continental. Reservations required. VS, MC, AX, DC, DS, JCB. Checks accepted. $$$

Nick’s Fishmarket (PC, I)

For more than 20 years this Waikiki landmark has been a date-night, after-theater, dance-and-dine standard. Executive chef Eugenio Martignago is an old hand at creating delectable and visually appealing seafood specialties. The blackened ‘ahi sashimi with Cajun spices is a fine starter, as the scampi in garlic butter. We also have fond memories of the Norwegian salmon, Hawaiian broadbill swordfish in black sesame seed crust, sauteed ‘opakapaka and grilled mahimahi. Service is sophisticated and knowledgeable; try to snag a banquette. 2070 Kalakaua Ave.; 955-6333. Dinner: 5:30-10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday; 5:30-11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Seafood. Reservations recommended. VS, MC, AX, DC, DS, JCB. Checks accepted. $$$.

OnJin’s Cafe (CC, PC)

Relaxed and fancy at the same time is On Jin’s at dinner (the bustling lunch service is more of a plate lunch, take-out approach). Where else can you experience really great ribs and also enjoy escargot? Two great appetizers are on our suggested list: the macadamia and coconut-crusted prawns skewered and grilled along with fresh pineapple, and the escargot en croute with buttery puff pastry, shiitake mushrooms and a non-traditional sauce of garlic herb butter, burgundy and pernod that’s a bread-dunking extravaganza. 401 Kamake‘e St.; 589-1666. Lunch 11 a.m.-2 p.m. weekdays. Dinner: 5-9 p.m. Tuesday-Sunday. Lunch, plate lunch with flair; dinner, Eurasian. Reservations recommended. VS, MC, AX, DS. No checks. Lunch: $; Dinner: $$.

Padovani’s Bistro and Wine Bar (CC)

Light, sumptuous food reminiscent of the French Mediterranean are chef Philippe Padovani’s forte. Avocado mousse tops pan-fried moi served with mushrooms and tomatoes; onaga in a curry sauce is executed with finesse. Save room for Pierre Padovani’s symphony of desserts – house-made ice creams, sorbets and other treats – and finely crafted chocolates made with Hawaiian Vintage Chocolate. Neoclassic Hawaiian decor creates a luxurious cozy dining room. There’s also classic European-style service and the most extensive and extraordinary wine list in town presided over by Padovani’s partner John P. Damon. 1956 Ala Moana Blvd.; 946-3456. Breakfast: 6 a.m.-10 a.m. daily. Lunch: 11:30 a.m. -2 p.m. Monday-Saturday. Dinner: 5:30-10 p.m. Monday-Saturday. French/Mediterranean. Reservations recommended. VS, MC, AX, DC, DS, JCB. No checks. Lunch: $$; Dinner: $$$.

Palomino Restaurant (PC)

In waiter-speak, Palomino has been “slammed” since the first Honolulu trendoid dug into the oven-roasted crab dip with pizza crisps, washed down with a lovely Columbia Crest chardonnay. The scent wafting out from the restaurant’s signature spit roaster and hearth oven literally permeates the neighborhood, luring customers in for lamb shanks and prime rib, roasted prawns and grilled ravioli. Palomino's owner, Seattle-based Restaurants Unlimited, is among the nation's most respected chains, known for well-trained and warmly welcoming staff, attention to detail and reasonable prices. 66 Queen St.; 528-2400. Lunch 11:15 a.m.-2:30 p.m. weekdays. Dinner 5-10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday; 5-11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Mediterranean. Reservations recommended. VS, MC, AX, DC, DS. Checks accepted. Lunch: $; Dinner: $$.

Roy’s Restaurant (CC, PC)

This is Hawai‘i’s first and best-known home for Euro-Asian cuisine. After a dozen years, chef Roy Yamaguchi and the staff he has personally trained still turns out some very fine dishes: blackened ‘ahi, baby back ribs, hibachi salmon and chocolate souffle cake. This is quality food at fair prices in a bustling atmosphere where kids are welcomed. And when he’s in town, the chef still appears, cooking, in the open-air kitchen. Wine buyer Randal Caparoso assures a supply of intriguing and correctly priced wines. 6600 Kalaniana‘ole Highway; 396-7697. Dinner: 5:30-9:30 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 5:30-10 p.m. Friday; 5-10 p.m. Saturday; 5-9:30 p.m. Sunday. Euro-Asian cuisine. Reservations recommended. VS, MC, AX, DC, DS, JCB. Checks accepted. $$.

Ruth’s Chris Steak House (CC, PC, I) When you’re hankering for a steak, you can’t beat thick cuts of prime, aged, dry beef, prepared on the hottest of grills and presented with a sizzle of butter on top. Fillet mignons and ribeye steaks are local favorites; asparagus, broccoli au gratin and creme brulee, too. Manager Al Hosoi makes sure your dining experience is just the way founder Ruth Fertel planned it, with fine wine selections and noteworthy service. The restaurant recently expanded, creating a beautiful private dining room. Restaurant Row, 500 Ala Moana Blvd.; 599-3860. Dinner: 5-10 p.m. daily. Steak and seafood. Reservations recommended. VS, MC, AX, DC, JCB. No checks. $$$.

Sam Choy’s Diamond Head Restaurant (PC, I) Local flavors can be a bit rough around the edges but not in the hands of the ebullient Sam Choy, who can turn a simple stir fry into gourmet delight. Choy, a hotel-trained local boy whose first restaurant is still thriving in an unlikely industrial park on the Big Island, invented fried poke. Asian osso bucco, seafood lau lau and Hawaiian style bouillabaisse are classic Sam Choy, too, all served in portions bigger than any appetite. Not very fancy dining but special enough for celebrating families. 449 Kapahulu Ave.; 732-8645. Dinner: 5:30-9:30 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 5-9:30 p.m. Friday-Sunday. Sunday Brunch: 9:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Pacific Rim style. Reservations strongly recommended for large parties. VS, MC, AX, DC, DS, JCB. Checks accepted. $$$.

Sarento’s Top of the I (PC, I)

Sarento’s, high up in the ‘Ilikai Hotel at the edge of Waikiki, offers one of the most beautiful views of any dining room in Honolulu. It is an intimate and romantic restaurant with fantastic service and very good food. The style is decidedly Italian/Mediterranean. The grilled prawns with pancetta are not to be missed. Ditto the grilled portobello Napolean stuffed with prosciutto, eggplant, mozzarella and tomato. The osso buco in barolo wine sauce is one of the best in town. ‘Ilikai Hotel, 1777 Ala Moana Blvd.; 955-5559. Dinner: 5-9:15 p.m. Sunday-Thursday; 5-10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Italian. Reservations recommended. VS, MC, AX, DC, DS, JCB. Checks accepted. $$$.

Sunset Grill (CC) A long-time favorite at Restaurant Row, Sunset Grill is now featuring the creations of new executive chef Ryan Day, who has redesigned the menu, focusing on Californian and Pacific rim cuisine, but who is also reviving some familiar favorites. Try the crab cakes served with avocado poke, Sunset ceviche (a Mexican-style poke) or the hoisin barbecue Pacific salmon. Of all things, the roast chicken is exceptional. Famous for their wine selection, Sunset Grill stocks more than 200 wines, including Opus, Caymus, Farallon and Dominus wines. Restaurant Row, 500 Ala Moana Blvd.; 521-4409. Lunch: 11 a.m.-4 p.m. weekdays. Dinner: 4-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 4-10:30 p.m. Friday; 5-10:30 p.m. Saturday; 5-10 p.m. Sunday. San Francisco bistro-style with local favorites. Reservations recommended. VS, MC, AX, DC, DS, JCB. Checks accepted. $$.

Tai Pan on the Boulevard (CC)

Tai Pan is an anomaly, a storefront along a busy thoroughfare that is like a trip to another, more graceful world once you step inside. Chef Ernesto Limcaco creates European cuisine with Asian overtones. Try the Thai roast beef salad with crunchy sweet honey-glazed walnuts in chile-sesame vinaigrette, and the outstanding seafood chowder. Braided salmon and sea bass with scallop mousse in a sake beurre blanc sauce is also a winner. Enjoy the classic French apple tart tatin, which will cause you to forget about any and all apple desserts you’ve ever tasted. 1680 Kapi‘olani Blvd.; 943-1888. Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. daily. Dinner: 5:30-10 p.m. daily. Fusion of East/West, Eurasian. Reservations recommended. VS, MC, AX, DC, DS, JCB. Checks accepted. $$.