Every region of the country has its specialities: dishes derived from the ethnic roots of its people; unique recipes made with the foods of the countryside, lake or ocean in the area; creations of local chefs or restaurateurs. But few locales can boast the cultural diversity of the Islands and the resulting unique family of dishes and presentations we call “local food” or “grinds.”

First came the Hawaiians in their canoes, bringing their beloved kalo (taro) for poi and l¨‘au leaf, pua‘a (pig) for kalua pig and lau lau and a taste for sea vegetables and all forms of seafood.

Then came the Westerners with their cooking traditions and new varieties of produce, as well as cattle. There followed plantation days, and the Chinese, Japanese, Okinawan, Portuguese, Swedish, German, Scottish, Korean, Filipino and Puerto Rican workers with their various ingredients, traditions and precious seeds packed up in their meager luggage.

They lived in all-male dormitories and ate from primitive cookhouses, learning to like whatever melange of cuisines was offered by the cooks, often Asians working with Western-style ingredients.

Later, as the women arrived, the ethnically segregated “camp” villages sprung up and workers, male and female, trudged to the fields with their lunches packed in knotted kerchiefs and kau kau tins (metal, compartmented lunch boxes that mimicked Japanese bento boxes).

And although ethnic groups tended to stay apart, encouraged by plantation owners fearful of labor unrest or racial friction, mingling occurred.

Lunches were shared. Religious and cultural celebrations brought people together to sample each other’s festive foods. Itinerant traders like the “manapua man” carried ethnic specialties between the camps. People of different races married and wed their foodways.

Within a generation, everyone was eating Japanese steamed rice at every meal (except when they were eating Chinese fried rice), substituting Portuguese sausage for ham in the traditional egg breakfast, enjoying Hawaiian lau lau, Korean kal-bi and Puerto Rican pasteles, selling pão doçe and chili for fund-raisers. People whose grandmothers made a little extra money in the camps by selling cooked foods opened okazu-ya (Japanese delis), bakeries and small restaurants.

And the plate lunch of hot dish/macaroni salad/two scoops rice — born, it is thought, of the Japanese bento/okazu plate tradition, but no one knows for sure — became the regional dish.

And that doesn’t even go into the more contemporary changes in the Islands’ foodways with the coming of new ethnic groups — people from Southeast Asia and the South Pacific — as well as the formulation of Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine.

In this chapter, we introduce our favorite sources for many of the Islands’ special foods. Visitors or newcomers: right after this chapter, you’ll find a glossary to help you with some of the food words you may not understand.

Ey, brah, us go grind!

Ba-Le Sandwich Shops (CC)

Steamed pork, pickled vegetables and fiery chili sauce on a crisp baguette creates a sandwich combination that explodes with flavor. This French-Vietnamese concoction dating back to colonial days in what was once called Indochine boasts many variations. The shops called Ba-Le (it’s Vietnamese for Paris) can be found throughout Oahu but we think the flagship Chinatown store is the best. Try Vietnamese manapua, tapioca desserts and spring rolls; French style baguettes and Vietnamese coffee are other reasons to come here. Multiple locations, hours vary. Selected for its French-Vietnamese sandwiches. No reservations required. No credit cards. No checks. $.

Champion Malasadas (CC)

We did a side-by-side tasting of hot malassadas one morning at The Honolulu Advertiser and Champion was the undoubted champion. It was a hotly debated and sugary discussion but the eggy, tasty, fried donuts created by owner Joc Miw and his crew beat out the home-style, more substantial ones from Agnes’ Bakery in Kailua and the lighter, more traditional variety from popular Leonard’s Bakery on Kapahulu Street. (Although everyone agrees that, hot and with a cup of coffee, the malassadas from any of these spots will hit the spot!) It’s just that, according to our informal tasting panel, Champion’s malassadas were “moist and tasty,” “beyond the basic malassada” with an “eggier, sweeter flavor.” (By the way, although many outlets spell malassadas with a single “s” our editor insists we use the proper Portuguese spelling; a single s would be pronounced as a “z” in Portugal.) 1926 S. Beretania St.; 947-8778. 6 a.m.-9 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday; 6:30 a.m.-7 p.m. Sunday. Selected for — what else? — malassadas, but they also have other bakery items. No reservations. No credit cards. No checks. $.

Char Hung Sut Restaurant (CC)

For local-style manapua (a distinctly Island version of what elsewhere is often called bao, steamed buns), you just can’t beat this Chinatown institution that was started by Bat Moi Mau 55 years ago. (Manapua, by the way, is translated from Hawaiian roughly as “delicious pork thing” — mea ‘ono pua‘a.) “The filling is strictly meat; it’s the only place I’ll eat manapua,” said one loyal customer picking up her boxful of fresh, hand made steamed buns. Stacks of stainless steel steaming trays on time-worn concrete floors, pastry boxes stacked high and the fact that by noon, some items are sold out tells you how popular and well-liked this place is. And for good reason. Call ahead if you want to be sure of particular delicacies. Char Hung Sut is a strictly take-out operation. 64 N. Pauahi St. 538-3335. Selected for manapua and other Asian finger foods. No reservations. No credit cards. No checks. $

Contemporary Museum Cafe (CC)

When you need a quiet, relaxing place for delicious food, it’s worth the short drive up to Makiki Heights for lunch or afternoon dessert. You might describe Noreen Lam’s food as “California fresh” — It’s straightforward, interesting and appetizing without fussiness and flamboyance. The restaurant is laid out in a ground floor room and into the gardens of what was once an airy and gracious family home. The food is as contemporary as its artsy surroundings: gravlax, hummus and pita plates, taco salad, grilled veggies on focaccia and mouthwatering daily specials and luscious desserts. This is as honest as food gets; everything tastes of what it is. 2411 Makiki Heights Drive; 523-3362. Lunch: 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday; noon-2 p.m. Sunday. Dessert menu: 2-3 p.m. daily. Selected for its lunch menu. Reservations recommended for large parties. VS, MC, AX. Checks accepted. $.

Eggs ‘n Things (CC, PC) Created to serve the needs of Waikiki’s night owls and the folks who work late or early, Eggs ‘n Things open from late-night to mid-afternoon the next day and there’s pretty much always a line outside waiting for the humongous omelettes, the stuffed crepes, the daily fresh fish-and-egg specials, the pancakes and every possible side dish. Eggs ‘n Things is so unchanging as to cause a feeling of disconcerting deja vu in one who hasn’t been there in a while. The menus are still printed on slabs of varnished plywood, the waitresses still wear aprons that split down the middle to fit over their pant legs, the coffee cups are still bottomless and the decor is still funky quasi-country. Don’t miss the fabulous fresh orange syrup for your griddle cakes. 1911B Kalakaua Ave.; 949-0820. 11 p.m.-2 p.m. daily. Selected for its all-hours breakfast. Reservations not accepted. No credit cards. No checks. $.

Fukuya (CC)

In a town where the preparation of proper macaroni salad is considered a form of high art, Fukuya is renowned for its version. Their flavorful sushi, furikake or shiso musubi and a fine tofu patty are just a few of the choices you have to have when you order plate lunch at this traditional style Mo‘ili‘ili okazu-ya. (An okazu-ya is a traditional Japanese take-out place.) The ladies here are very fine cooks: The food is tasty and well seasoned and made fresh daily. This spot is strictly for take-out and catering and it’s a classic of its genre. 2710 S. King St.; 946-2073. 6 a.m.-2 p.m. Wednesday-Sunday. Selected for its okazu-ya specialities. No reservations required. VS, MC. Checks and credit cards accepted for tabs over $10. $

Gulick Delicatessen and Coffee Shop (CC)

Plate lunch aficionados can only marvel at the more than three dozen offerings of this Kalihi okazu-ya where Japanese, Chinese, Filipino, American, Hawaiian and local-style dishes are up for grabs. Excellent sushi, vegetable dishes such as string beans and pork and nishime (a Japanese stew), all are just like Oka-san used to make. The Makishi family, who are so humble and shy of publicity that they declined to attend the ‘Ilima award even when they won for Best Plate Lunch a few years ago, lets you have plate lunch, your way; the toughest part is deciding what to choose and finding a place to park at this strictly take-out place in the middle of a residential area. 1512 Gulick Ave.; 847-1461. 4:30 a.m.-3:30 p.m. Monday-Saturday, 8 a.m.-3:30 p.m. Sunday. Selected for its legendary plate lunch. No reservations. VS, MC, DS. No checks. $.

Indigo Eurasian Cuisine (CC, PC)

When chef-owner Glenn Chu inaugurated a lunch buffet at his Chinatown retreat, some looked askance. But the intriguing selection he offers has become extremely popular, and it’s one of the best lunch deals in town, including, as it does, a selection of fresh-made dim-sum-style appetizers in addition to the buffet. Select from several cold salads, grilled chicken with satay sauce, New York strip loin, shrimp pasta, lemon grass cured gravlax and other eclectic selections, all seasoned with an Asian and Middle Eastern flair. Indigo, ensconsed in a historic brick storefront with a garden at the back, transports you to the alley ways of Bangkok or Hong Kong. The sound of rippling water and the intriguing ambience is the perfect stage for Chu’s exotic and enticing preparations. 1121 Nu‘uanu Ave.; 521-2900. Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m.Tuesday-Friday. Dinner: 6-9:30 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday. Selected for its lunch-time Asian buffet; but the Eurasian dinner menu is a great choice before visiting Hawai‘i Theatre. Reservations recommended. VS, MC, DC, DS. No checks. $$.

Kaka‘ako Kitchen (CC, PC) Breakfast is our favorite meal here: loco moco with Hawaiian style hamburger patties (the kind with onions and stuff); fried rice loaded with char siu, Spam, bacon and kamaboko or Portuguese sausage with aggs and rice. Often, there’s a fresh fish specialty with eggs, as well. There are omelettes and French toast and, of course, pastry chef Lisa Siu’s pumpkin and banana breads and other delicious pastries. Chef Russell Siu is an appreciator of quality so the coffee is excellent, the juice is fresh-squeezed, but this is still strictly a styrofoam kind of place with casual indoor-outdoor seating. Ward Centre, 1200 Ala Moana Blvd.; 596-7488. 7 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday-Saturday, 7 a.m.-5 p.m. Sunday. Selected for its local-style breakfasts; they also serve plate-lunch type lunches and dinners. VS, MC. Checks accepted. $.

Kincaid’s Fish, Chop & Steak House (PC, I)

Visit Kincaid’s on any day and there’ll be a large, slightly noisy party somewhere — probably several such parties — celebrating a birthday, a reunion of family of friends, a graduation or some other special occasion. This well-designed restaurant with its tiered floors allowing a view of Kewalo Basin across Ala Moana Boulevard is a Mainland-style place (it’s part of the Restaurants Unlimited family) with a strong local following because of the friendly service, varied seafood menu and affordable prices. They also understand how to serve a business lunch here; they’ll speed it up if you’re in a hurry, or give you time to huddle over the details if that’s what you wish. Ward Warehouse; 591-2005. Lunch: 11 a.m.-5 p.m. daily. Dinner: 5-10 p.m. daily. Selected for its business and festive lunches, but they also have a fine contemporary seafood menu. Reservations recommended. VS, MC, AX, DC, DS, JCB. Checks accepted. $$

Kua ‘Aina Sandwich Shop (CC, PC, I)

Say burgers on O‘ahu and someone will say Kua ‘Aina and get a dreamy look on their face. For more than 20 years, you had to drive all the way to Hale‘iwa on the North Shore to satisfy a Kua ‘Aina fix (the name means “country jack”). But three years ago, the owners took pity on city folks and opened an ‘Auahi Street location that is invariably packed at lunch time.  They hand-shape these one-third and one-half-pound patties, char-broil them and then top them with locally grown lettuce, tomato and a carrot slice. These burgers are cooked exactly as you order them; be ready for the juices to drip down your chin. Their fries are legendary too — shoestring shaped, hot and crisp but not greasy. Two locations: 66-214 Kamehameha Highway., Hale‘iwa, 637-6067, 11 a.m.-8 p.m. daily; and Ward Village (across Ward Centre), 1116 Auahi, 591-9133, 10:30 a.m.-9 p.m., Monday-Saturday, 10:30 a.m.-8 p.m. Sunday. Selected for its burgers and fries. No reservations required. No credit cards. Checks accepted. $

Kwong-On (CC)

Kwong-On is about as hole-in-the-wall as it gets. This storefront in no way hints at the hidden gem that lies beyond its threshold. Unless you heard from a friend about this place you wouldn’t know of its existence in the heart of Kaimuki. In the early morning, you’ll find yourself in the midst of a bustling exclusively take-away business of Chinese delicacies and bakery items.  They make wonderful fried rice, manapua, chow fun (silky rice noodles with bean sprouts, slivers of pork and a soy-based sauce), and curry half-moons (flaky meat-filled pastry).  This is a must-try.  But get there early; by noon you’re out of luck. 3620-A Wai‘alae Avenue; 734-4666. 7:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Monday-Saturday, closed Sunday. Selected for manapua, noodles, Chinese treats. No credit cards. Checks accepted. $.

Like Like Drive Inn Restaurant (CC)

Bustling at all hours of the day or night, the spacious remodeled restaurant (not a drive-in at all) is open 24 hours, offering a wide-ranging menu of diner plates and local favorites such as saimin, hamburger “steak” (seasoned, onion-flecked burgers with fried onions and brown gravy), chili and rice and a large selection of daily specials. These roam the culinary landscape from tripe stew to fried chicken, Chinese-style roast pork to spaghetti. This is a clean, well-lighted place, short on decor but long on calories, a place to pile into late, hungry and laughing with a tableful of friends. 745 Ke‘eaumoku St.; 941-2515. 24 hours daily. Selected for its late hours and local-style diner fare. No reservations required. No credit cards. No checks. $.

Liliha Bakery (CC)

Take a cream puff shell, fill it with chocolate pudding and top it with Chantilly icing and you have the ultimate in sweet decadence, the Liliha Bakery coco puff. A couple hundred dozen are made daily by this venerable 50-year-old bakery run by Bill Takakuwa, whose family started it. By the way, this bakery and coffee shop also produces good donuts, brownies, cakes, pies and other goodies, as well as simple meals, 24 hours a day. 515 N. Kuakini St.; 531-1651. 6 a.m.-8 p.m. Tuesday-Sunday, closed Monday. Selected for the coco puffs; also a wide variety of baked goods. No reservations. No credit cards. Checks accepted. $.

Oceanarium Restaurant (I, PC)

Local folks and visitors alike love the Oceanarium because it’s like having a meal underwater without the unpleasant side effects. A 280,000-gallon aquarium forms one wall of the restaurant, home to more than 370 fishes of about 70 species, an extraordinary sight and one that keeps children satisfactorily occupied while Mom and Dad converse. The breakfast menu here occupies three packed pages and includes every Western-style choice you could possibly expect, along with local favorites such as corned beef hash and eggs, fresh papaya, French toast made with Portuguese sweet bread, grilled Spam and eggs. Pacific Beach Hotel, 2490 Kalakaua Ave.; 921-6111. Breakfast: 6-11 a.m. weekdays; 6-9 a.m. Sundays. Lunch: 11 a.m.-2 p.m. weekdays; 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Saturdays. Light Lunch: 2-5 p.m. Monday-Saturday; 2:30-5 p.m. Sunday. Dinner: 5-10 p.m. Sunday Brunch: 10 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Selected for its breakfasts, but known for its Sunday brunch buffet too. VS, MC, AX, DC, DS, JCB. Checks accepted. Breakfast and lunch: $; Dinner and Sunday Buffet: $$.

Orchids (CC, PC)

Although Waikiki is practically paved with Sunday breakfast buffets, we just had to pick this one at the venerable and beloved Halek¨lani Hotel. Kama‘aina can never get enough of the selections at the packed tables and hot stations. There are more than two dozen salads plus sashimi, poke, sushi, hot and cold soups, suckling pig, roast beef, omelette and waffle stations, fish, eggs Benedict and more hot entrees. And of course there are the famous Halek¨lani popovers, coconut cake, pastries and desserts to relax over while enjoying the harpist and flutist. Great for special occasions. Halek¨lani Hotel; 923-2311. Breakfast: 7:30-11 a.m. Monday-Saturday. Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Saturday. Dinner: 6-10 p.m. daily. Sunday Brunch: 9:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Selected for its lavish Sunday brunch; also contemporary continental menu. VS, MC, AX, DC, DS, JCB. Checks accepted. $$$.

Pagoda Hotel’s Floating Restaurant (CC, PC)

This Honolulu brunch favorite is built above a Japanese garden and carp pond. Last time we were there the selection of items included shrimp tempura, assorted sushi favorites, fresh fish dishes, salad items, roast beef, ham, noodle dishes and lots of other local foods. The dessert table commands a lot of attention too, with its soft-serve ice cream, pies, cakes and fresh fruit. Here’s a lot of food at affordable prices, with very efficient and friendly service, in a delightful setting. Pagoda Hotel, 1525 Rycroft St.; 941-6611. Lunch: 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Saturday. Dinner: 5-9:30 Monday-Friday, 4:30-9:30 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Sunday Brunch: 10:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Reservations recommended. VS, MC, AX, DC, DS, JCB. Checks accepted. $.

Palace Saimin Stand (CC)

With just 28 seats, Tetsuko Arakaki’s saimin shop does a brisk business serving up steaming bowls of well-flavored pork and shrimp broth and fresh locally made noodles topped simply with char siu and green onions. Won ton min, udon and barbecue sticks are also on the menu at this tiny spot in Kalihi where you help yourself to water. Nothing fancy; just simply good saimin when you have a hankering for it. 1256 N. King St.; 841-9983. Lunch: 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Dinner: 8 p.m.-midnight. Saimin. No reservations. No credit cards. No checks. $.

Prince Court Restaurant (CC)

The lunch buffet here is extremely popular with local folks as well as the hotel’s clientele of visitors from Japan and we can see why: the mouthwatering displays and tantalizing dishes add up to lots of great bites, not just fillers. There’s always fresh sashimi and sushi, but this buffet also offers shabu shabu (paper-thin sliced beef to cook in boiling hot broth), an unusual touch. Chef Goran Streng takes pride in the spread, utilizing many ingredients from local farmers and suppliers. A lively but tranquil atmosphere overlooking the Ala Wai boat harbor; great for special occasions, too. Westin Hawai‘i Prince Hotel, 100 Holomoana St.; 944-4494. Breakfast: 6-10:30 a.m. Lunch 11:30-a.m.-2 p.m. Dinner: 6-9:30 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 5:30-9:30 p.m. weekends. Saturday and Sunday Brunch: 11:15 a.m.-1 p.m. Fancy buffet. Reservations recommended. VS, MC, AX, JCB, DC. Checks accepted. $$$.

Ryan’s Grill (PC, I)

Readers of The Honolulu Advertiser have given this lively, casual but sophisticated spot the ‘Ilima Award nod for “Favorite Spot for Pau Hana Drinks and Pupu” four years running. First, there are 24 micro and macro brews on tap and a selection of tequilas and single malt Scotches second to none in Honolulu and the bartenders are smart and fast. Chef Bill Bruhl’s Dungeness crab and artichoke dip is a perennial favorite with the restaurant’s signature focaccia bread. But don’t miss his deep-fried southwestern calamari, the Atlantic salmon rangoons or Cajun-crusted blackened sashimi. And the ‘ahi poke is exceptional. Ward Centre, 1200 Ala Moana Blvd.; 591-9132. 11:15 a.m.-1:15 a.m. Monday-Saturday. Sunday Brunch: 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Sunday dinner: 3 p.m.-1:15 a.m. Selected for drinks and pupu; also bistro-style cuisine, pizza, burgers, salads. Reservations recommended for large parties. VS, MC, AX, DC. Checks accepted. $$.

Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar (CC, PC) A New Wave sushi adventure is the promise of chef-owner D.K. Kodama and resident chef Sean Kinoshita. The luxurious foie gras nigiri sushi with unagi sauce melts on the tongue, mango crab salad rolls sharpen the taste buds, crisp calamari in ko cho jang vinaigrette explodes in the mouth. Entrees of seafood, chicken, pork, beef, duck, lamb and pasta are generously laced with demi glace richness and Pacific Rim flavors. Not glitzy but comfy; the bar is a home for karaoke fans, the sushi bar attracts cognoscente. Restaurant Row; 536-6286. Dinner: 5-10 p.m. daily. Pupu, sushi menu: 10 p.m.- 1 a.m. Tuesday-Saturday. Selected for pupu, sushi; also Euro-Asian menu. Reservations recommended. VS, MC, AX, DS, JCB. No checks. $$.

Side Street Inn (CC, PC)

Pork chops, fried rice, edamame (boiled soy bean snacks), poke and li hing martinis are some of the specialties of this sports bar hangout that rubs elbows with strip joints and karaoke bars along a side street in the Ala Moana area. This has become famous as a late-night hangout for celebrity chefs who like Colin Nishida’s homestyle food and the opportunity to sing karaoke and throw darts. At lunchtime, plate lunches are as good and reasonably priced. Very informal, dark, noisy and smoky, just as a bar should be. 1225 Hopaka St.; 591-0253. Lunch: 10:30 a.m.-1 p.m. weekdays. Pupu: 4 p.m.-1 a.m. daily. Bar: 2 p.m.-2 a.m. daily. Selected for late-night grinds, pork chops, fried rice and ribs. Reservations recommended for large parties. VS, MC, AX, DC, DS, JCB. No checks. $.

Teddy’s Bigger Burgers (CC) Thick, juicy, grilled hamburgers cooked to order just as you want them; crisp, hot French fries and thick, creamy milk shakes: what more could you ask for? Teddy’s delivers in old-fashioned ‘50s drive-in style without a lot of fuss, just a short wait. The food’s best eaten on the spot, although seating is limited. This is what you’re really craving when you have one of those fast food attacks. Two locations. 539 Kailua Road, 262-0820, Kailua; 3114 Monsarrat Ave., Waikiki, 735-9411. 10:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 10:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday-Saturday. Selected for burgers. No reservations required. No credit cards. No checks. $.