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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Wednesday, June 3, 2009

TASTE
Braised to perfection


By Joan Namkoong
Special to The Advertiser

Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser

Pork shoulder lends itself perfectly to braising, a simple technique that takes a bit more time but little effort.

Shareyourtable.com photos

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Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser

Braising pork shoulder tenderizes it while retaining moisture and flavor.

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Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser

Adding spices, such as star anise or cinnamon, to the pork braising liquid kicks up the flavor.

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Editor's note: Sunday Night Supper is a monthly series about how to turn one evening's meal into several, and a chore into family fun. It's prepared in conjunction with the culinary Web site Share Your Table.

When you have some cooking time on a Sunday, there's nothing better than braising a chunk of meat. Pork shoulder (familiarly known as pork butt), pot roast, short ribs, osso buco or even a whole chicken lend themselves to this simple cooking technique that requires more time than effort on the part of the cook and results in a tender, moist and succulent entree.

Braising is cooking a whole piece of meat in a small amount of liquid in a covered cooking vessel. It's different from stewing, in which the pieces of meat are smaller and are covered in liquid. Braising is for those large pieces of meat that need tenderizing while retaining flavor and moisture. It's a great way to use less costly cuts of meat.

To begin a braise, start with a chunk of meat — about three pounds — such as pork shoulder. Heat a heavy Dutch oven or casserole over medium heat. Enamel-covered cast-iron pans (e.g. Cuisinart) are ideal for braising because they heat evenly and retain even heat through the cooking process. Once the pot is hot, add a little bit of fat - olive oil, vegetable oil or butter. The pan should be sizzling hot but not so hot that the fat burns or the meat blackens.

Pat the meat dry with a paper towel before putting it into the hot oil to avoid splattering and so it browns, not stews. Let it brown for about 4 to 5 minutes, crisping and caramelizing the surface. Turn the meat onto the other side and patiently let it brown. Turn it to the edges and brown. Browning helps develop flavor in the meat, so take your time because no seasoning will make up for the caramelized flavor that develops here.

Once the meat is nicely browned all over, add your braising liquid. That can be beef, chicken or vegetable stock, wine, beer, juice from canned tomatoes or even apple juice (when you're cooking pork). Scrape up the browned bits at the bottom of the pot after adding the liquid; they will add flavor. Bring the liquid to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer so the liquid is barely bubbling at the surface. Cover the pot; the liquid inside, plus the juices from the meat itself will condense on the lid and continuously baste the meat as it simmers.

Instead of simmering the meat on the stovetop, place the covered pot in a preheated 325-degree oven and continue to cook. You may add vegetables for more flavor and a complete meal.

Braised meat is done when it's fork tender — in other words you can cut it with a fork. Remove the pot from the stovetop or the oven and transfer the meat to a platter, keeping it covered and warm.

You can make a sauce or gravy from the braising liquid, which will be highly concentrated and deeply flavored. Remove some of the surface fat first. Then bring it to a gentle boil to reduce the volume of liquid. The natural collagen in the meat will help to thicken the liquid, resulting in a deliciously flavored sauce. For a thicker gravy, whisk in a mixture of cornstarch and water.

Braising is a delicious way to prepare a Sunday Night Supper and has the advantage of needing very little care while it's cooking. The bonus is leftovers that can be quickly reheated or transformed into a delicious weeknight meal.