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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Wednesday, July 30, 2008

RAISE A GLASS
Delicate dishes take palate on journey around China

 •  Haute chocolate

By Cynthia Fenner

For those of you looking forward to Part 3 of wine myths, let me assure you it is in the works and will be a future article. But because the world is focused on the Olympics in Beijing, I thought I would devote this column to my recent food and wine journey throughout China.

Once again, I traveled with my partner-in-crime Sully, from Michel's at the Colony Surf. We have a mutual love for good wine and food, and I was eager to take him to my old hometown, Hong Kong. In anticipation of our journey, we watched Anthony Bourdain's "No Reservations" episode filmed in Hong Kong. I had to pause the TiVo when they spoke of Alvin Leung, "Demon Chef" of Bo Innovation; I turned to Sully and said, "We have to go there!" So I set about getting a reservation via their Web site. I sent several requests for a table and finally it came: an e-mail from "Ricky Wong" confirming our reservation.

Upon landing in Hong Kong, I took Sully to Lan Kwai Fong to see my old hangouts, some of which were still going strong. We found "Bo" on Ice House Street, where we confirmed our dinner that night and inquired about the dress code, which was casual. Our mouths watered as we glanced at the menu. We returned hours later with appetites at the ready. Ricky met us at the front door and gushed about the fact that we had come from Hawai'i. He asked how we had heard of this small (maybe 12-table) restaurant, and when we mentioned Bourdain's show, he smiled knowingly.

We started our meal with Drappier champagne and an oyster served cold with tomato sorbet. We chose a bottle of Freeman Pinot Noir Akiko's Cuvee. Ricky then brought us something we had seen on the show, an ice cream made from preserved duck sausage sprinkled with Rice Krispies. Next came a foie gras potsticker, cod in miso sauce with lotus root and beet. A Hokkaido scallop and baby asparagus with Mandarin sauce was unbelievably delicious! Then another dish from the show: a Caesar salad in a cone, Waldorf shooter and a Nicoise strip. We were happy to have Alvin the "Demon Chef" come out to join us for a glass of wine and to talk about food, wine, Hong Kong and London, his hometown. He is an engineer by day, and with no formal chef's training he has stirred up the dining scene in Hong Kong with his molecular gastronomy. We ended the evening enjoying an array of deserts with a nice, sweet Verdicchio.

I did not think the meal at "Bo" could ever be topped, but we knew if we dined at Nobu the next evening, we could not be disappointed. We have dined at the Waikiki location a few times and loved it. The added bonus was that Nobu himself was in Hong Kong. We asked if we could meet him, and he graciously sat down at our table for a nice chat. We spoke of our friend in common, Phil Shaw, general manager of Michel's; Nobu knew him from the early days at Roy's. We had an excellent dinner at Nobu, as usual, and went back to our room, bellies full, and packed to fly to Beijing the next morning.

Our days in Beijing were full of sights — The Great Wall, Forbidden City, Tiananmen Square. In Xian, we saw the Terra Cotta Warriors. We were treated to many great Chinese banquets, but none as lavish as the meal in Xian, where Sully actually ate scorpions! Not for me, I must say.

When we got to Shanghai, we only had one evening for a dinner out. My manager at Neiman Marcus, Chip Ching, had recommended two restaurants, and we did not know which one to try. We were walking around the Bund District and saw a "tourist tunnel" to the other side of the harbor. I just had to take it, and it did not disappoint. This was one of the funniest parts of our trip, with cheesy lights and blow-up dolls entertaining us on the journey.

As we came out on the other side of the tunnel, we saw we were at the base of the Shangri-La where Chip had mentioned Jade on 36. Although we were very casually dressed, we thought maybe they would take us anyway. After a glass of champagne at the bar, we were seated. We ordered a '99 Nuits St. George from Louis Latour. As soon as the bread was served, I had to get my camera. It was a sardine can with the top rolled back, filled with a sardine dip and flatbread crackers. What a presentation! I asked the manager if I could photograph the food, which he did not mind. In fact I think he gets that question daily.

We ordered two different set dinners so we could try as much as possible, and every dish that came out took our breath away. It was a feast for all senses. We were thrilled to speak with the director of wine, Kelvin Tay, who has been in the wine business for 17 years. Once again, we were lucky to have chef de cuisine Paul Pairet come out and join us for a chat.

With some of the best meals we have ever had, Sully and I have agreed that we cannot wait to go back!

Note: Since we visited, Bo Innovation has moved to a new location — No. 60 Johnston Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong; 852-2850-8371.

Jade on 36 is at 33 Fu Chen Lu, Pudong, Shanghai; 86-21-6882-8888.

Cynthia Fenner is a certified sommelier and the wine buyer for Neiman Marcus Epicure. Reach her at 948-7557 or hawaiiwinegirl@gmail.com. Raise a Glass appears in the Taste section every other week and is written by a rotating group of beverage experts.