honoluluadvertiser.com

Sponsored by:

Comment, blog & share photos

Log in | Become a member
The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Wednesday, July 16, 2008

TASTE
Bringing healing to the table

 •  Culinary calendar
 •  Gazpacho flavors pop if you grill it, then chill it
 •  A sampling of McKay's recipes for cancer patients
 •  Star Circle is new to DHT gala benefit
 •  Easy ways to intensify flavors in healthy diet
 •  A different kind of food expo
 •  KFC Hawaii adds May's teri sandwich
 •  This appetizer can easily be an entree

By Wanda A. Adams
Advertiser Food Editor

Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser

Chef, writer and artist Madeleine McKay sits next to one of her paintings, titled "Catch of the Day," which will decorate the pages of her upcoming cookbook on healthy, cancer-fighting recipes she devised while caring for her epicure husband, Gardner McKay.

Photos by JEFF WIDENER | The Honolulu Advertiser

spacer spacer
Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser

Madeleine McKay created this nutritional — and tasty — dish of grilled salmon with fresh tomatoes, basil and garlic.

spacer spacer
Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser

Tapenade is served on thinly sliced rustic bread that is sprayed lightly with olive oil and and toasted in the oven.

spacer spacer

It started with the tapenade. This olive-based relish served on very thin slices of crisp, homemade toast became breakfast instead of doughnuts and coffee.

It's a metaphor for how cancer changes a life but doesn't have to destroy every enjoyment.

It was January 2000, and Madeleine McKay had just learned that her husband, novelist, artist, journalist, playwright and sometime TV actor (the 1950s series "Adventures in Paradise") Gardner McKay, had an extremely virulent form of prostate cancer. He was told he had only a short time to live, though he survived for almost two more years, continuing his writing and attempting to retain his considerable joie de vivre.

He would rise early, retire to his one-room writing cottage separate from their Koko Head home, work through the day with stops for breakfast, perhaps a short kayak workout (which generally ended at a local coffee shop), work again for a couple of hours, then lunch, more work and a lavish dinner with wine, his beloved wife and perhaps some friends. Meanwhile, Madeleine McKay would be in her studio, painting; she produces gorgeous still-lifes, often of food, and her work will decorate her book when it is published.

"He was a gourmand," said Madeleine McKay, "He loved to eat." And having lived all over the world, he loved many kinds of foods: Mediterranean-style meals, French country food, and dishes he grew to love while living in the Canary Islands for a time. Like many men, he has a preference for every fatty thing: beef and lamb, butter and cream, especially ice cream.

But Madeleine McKay was learning that these very things may, according to burgeoning research, encourage and nurture cancer cells.

Speaking quietly, and with a somewhat far-away look, McKay (who has since remarried, to Hawai'i Public Radio president and general manager Michael Titterton) recalls that the first thing she and Gardner McKay did, in the despairing hours after they got the diagnosis, was sit in the living room looking at each other, stunned. And then they shared a bottle of champagne and began to laugh and "get a bit silly." Because what can you do?

But there were things to do. They sought out the best treatment they could find, here and in Los Angeles. They began a naturopathic herbal regimen. They practiced visualization, picturing the cancerous cells being destroyed. They attempted to get into clinical trials for new therapies.

Meanwhile, Gardner McKay fought in his studio, working through the misery of radiation and chemotherapy to complete two writing projects. "Now," he told Madeleine, "I'm really on a deadline."

And Madeleine McKay fought in the kitchen.

Because she had trained at Cordon Bleu and with former Honolulu baking maven Lavonne Tollerud, and, before marrying McKay in 1983, co-owned a very large Honolulu catering operation, and because they entertained often, she knew cooking.

Her first instinct was to turn to food as both healer and palliative.

She began immediately to research the effects of nutrition on cancer, which convinced her that animal fats and even certain vegetable fats (such as corn and safflower oil) feed cancer. She talked to other cancer survivors and found that most had turned to at least a semi-vegetarian diet, based mainly on vegetable proteins (beans and such), fruits and vegetables, and fish (but not farm-raised fish).

All the books she could find on cooking for cancer patients were focused on "building them up," with recipes focused on animal foods and fatty ingredients. It was almost, she thinks now, as though they were saying, "Oh, let them eat what they want. They're going to die anyway." She wasn't buying that.

And so she began to study her considerable recipe collection, working to change their diet — cutting out animal foods, most fats except a few oils, refined carbohydrates, cane and beet sugars — without destroying her husband's relish for flavor. "I felt that by reworking the recipes he had known and loved ... I could make the meals so interesting he wouldn't notice," she said. And for a long time, he didn't.

She devised what she hoped would be a cancer-fighting diet, loading their meals with phytochemicals, such as the lycopenes in cooked tomatoes, that are believed to prevent cancer cell production or proliferation. "And he was enjoying his food without suffering."

The result, seven years after his death, is a manuscript, not yet published but in the hands of a literary agent now, replete with ideas for people living with cancer and the cooks who love them.

The book not only offers recipes of the sunny flavored and sometimes spicy type that Gardner McKay loved, but ideas on techniques for helping cancer sufferers through the side effects of therapy, lists of tools that can make the work easier for the caretaker and some classic techniques she used to produce staple ingredients that helped her to put meals together quickly.

Among her favorite tools:

  • A well-seasoned cast iron pan for pan-roasting garlic and searing fish or vegetables. (You can often find them cheaply in secondhand stores.) She avoids nonstick pans because the coating can break down and may be carcinogenic. Calphalon brand pans are the next best thing, she said. Slick as nonstick but with a different manufacturing formulation.

  • A pressure cooker for taking the time and work out of preparing dried beans and grains from scratch. She grew up in an Irish family of six children, and her mother used a pressure cooker almost daily "because she was cooking volume," McKay recalls. Those old stories of "exploding" pressure cookers have passed into urban myth; today's versions are safe. (If you own a very old one, however, discard it and buy something with modern safety features such as quick-release valves and pressure locks.) Her tips: If you need to stop cooking fast, put the pressure cooker in the sink, turn on the cold water and wait until it stops jiggling, hissing or steaming (depending on the kind of pressure cooker you have). And always avert your face and tilt the lid away when opening the cover to avoid escaping steam.

  • An immersion blender — the wand-style blenders that can be plunged into a chunky soup and turn it into a silky bisque in minutes, or even whip skim milk into thick cream. She favors the Braun brand. "The most useful thing in the kitchen," she calls it.

    Madeleine McKay's efforts couldn't save Gardner McKay's life. He died Nov. 21, 2001. Madeleine McKay is working now to get his biography, "Journey Without a Map," published, and also to mount a Mainland theatrical production based on his haunting novel, "Toyer."

    But none can say her efforts to bring nutrition to the arsenal they turned upon his cancer didn't buy him some time, time he deeply wanted, in which to complete his work. And they certainly preserved one of the pleasures of his life — his time at table — far longer than might otherwise have been.

    • • •

    THINK DIFFERENTLY IN THE KITCHEN

    When her late husband, Gardner McKay, was diagnosed with cancer, Madeleine McKay tried different ingredients and techniques to retain flavor while cutting fats and refined sugars:

  • Stevia: An herbal sweetener made from the leaves of a South American shrub; 200 to 300-times sweeter than sugar, with no caloric value and no off flavors. It enters the system more slowly than sucrose (classic refined cane or beet sugar). Found at health-food stores.

  • Soy crumbles: Boca Burger is perhaps the best-known brand, but this is a soy-based "textured vegetable protein" that can replace hamburger or other ground meats. Or make crumbles from pressed tofu: cube, toss in whole-wheat flour and saute in an oil-sprayed pan until slightly crisped (the latter is based on Dr. Terry Shintani's technique).

  • Egg substitutes: These are high-protein, low-calorie mixtures without fat or cholesterol. McKay prefers the following brands: Better'n Eggs, Egg Beaters and Egg Starts.

  • Different fats: Use extra-virgin olive oil, grape seed oil or canola oil in place of solid fats. McKay even fries pancakes in a Calphalon pan wiped with olive oil.

  • Baking in paper: The French call this method "en papillote" and it means wrapping foods in a folded packet of kitchen parchment (available in larger grocery stores and in kitchen supply shops). The food steams without need of oil or fats and herbs, spices and aromatics can be added along with the fish or vegetables.

  • Glace: Reducing a liquid by cooking it at a low, slow temperature, until it develops a syrupy texture. McKay does this both with unfiltered apple juice and balsamic vinegar. Other juices work equally well for

    different uses.

    DEALING WITH TREATMENT SIDE EFFECTS

  • Madeleine McKay's upcoming book on living with cancer outlines some ways that the home cook can help a cancer sufferer with particular symptoms associated with treatments such as chemotherapy and radiation. Many of these foods can be prepared or stocked up on in advance for those who are doing self-care or to save time for the caretaker. Avoid acidic or spicy foods when symptoms are particularly acute.

  • Staying "regular": Constipation is a side effect of many cancer drugs. Drink lots of filtered water. Get fiber via bran muffins, beans, chickpeas, hummus (garbanzo spread), corn or mango salsa, beet greens, spinach, steamed soybeans (edamame), dried or fresh fruits, whole-grain breads, bran cereals, barley, nuts, or even cooked peas. Also, increase physical activity as much as can be tolerated.

  • "Going" too often: Drink plenty of water and eat foods high in potassium and sodium to replace nutrients lost when a person has diarrhea. Examples: bananas, apple juice, eggs, skim milk, yogurt, salmon, orange, tomato juice.

  • Pain when eating: Irritation of the mouth lining and dry mouth afflict many cancer patients in treatment. A protein or supplement drink can assure nutrition without requiring the patient to eat when it's difficult. McKay recommends Met-Rx as a brand that tastes goods and offers a good complement of nutritional supplements. She also devotes much of the book to soups, which can pack a lot of nutrition into liquid form.

  • Nausea: Various antinausea medications will be prescribed by the patient's physician. Further, plain foods might be palatable. McKay suggests a simple omelet, yogurt, bread or low-fat crackers or skim milk, hummus or a bowl of bland squash and yam soup.

  • Iron deficiency: This is a frequent side effect of treatment. Foods that can help include whole-grain breads and cereals, bran, dark-green leafy vegetables, soybeans, eggs, dried beans, limas, tofu, oysters, and such seafood as clams, shrimp and sardines. Foods that are rich in vitamin C assist with the absorption of iron. Check with the doctor, nutritional books or on the Internet. (Small sardine-like fish — a type of smelt — can be found at some fish stores, usually previously frozen but still nicely flavored; canned sardines are generally packed in oil and salt.)

  • Reach Wanda A. Adams at wadams@honoluluadvertiser.com.