It took a couple of unsuccessful attempts. One evening, it was, "Sorry, but we're out." The next time, our waitress told us, "Oh, we just sold the last one." Becoming more obsessed with every denial, I began to identify with Ben Stiller in the otherwise unremarkable movie "Envy." But finally, I was able to try flan with Kahlœa ($4.50; $3.25 plain) at Azteca Restaurant in Kaimuki.

I dug my spoon into the firm, eggy custard. I was ready to find out why this dessert was so elusive during the dinner hour. Azteca's modest space is constantly full of diners in the evening. Apparently, these folks are just as determined to get their flan. Someone ordered seven of them during one of my visits.

This neighborhood, corner Mexican restaurant started out in 1977, but the Sanchez family, originally from Chilapa in Mexico's Guerrero state, took over in 1984. Today, the family-run business hustles like the quick pace of a merengue tune. Customers waltz in to pick up take-out orders. Wait staff do a constant to-and-fro from the kitchen. Tables turn into different configurations like a slider puzzle as the scene changes with the comings and goings of large parties, smaller families and couples. Fortunately, it doesn't happen so fast that you can't enjoy a margarita or a cold beer from the good selection of Mexican cervezas.

These drinks are ideal partners for the combination plates so familiar to those for whom Mexican food is a necessary staple. At Azteca, the menu includes quesadillas, tostadas, fajitas and more. The restaurant doesn't neatly categorize as Tex-Mex, Cal-Mex or authentic Mexican. It's characterized by little melon-ball scoops of sour cream and piles of thinly shaved lettuce.

I've tasted better Mexican food in Honolulu, but Azteca's chips and fiery, fresh salsa are an explosive opener. And the restaurant does guacamole nicely, too, as well as soulful refried beans. However, I find the rice bland with a definitely unfluffy texture. Rather mild sauces here aren't distinctively flavorful. Mole is on the sweet side. And chicken can be slightly dry sometimes.

Certain dishes did capture my attention. Chicken taquitos ($10.50 a plate; $8 ala carte), also known as flautas, arrive as a cozy threesome, like a Mexican version of egg rolls. Shredded chicken is rolled into a corn tortilla and deep-fried. They have a crispy crunch as you bite through the exterior into the tender insides. Guacamole sauce adds a delightful tang.

I understood the draw even better after trying two captivating specialty plates, which come with beans and rice in addition to a choice of three corn tortillas or two flour ones. Carnitas ($14 a plate; $3.75 taco) consists of lean pieces of pork deep-fried in their own fat, the only item here not cooked in vegetable oil. Those not scared off by the description will be rewarded by irresistibly tender, moist meat with pure pork flavor. The carne asada ($14.25) is a wonderful juicy steak. A flame-broiled, 8-ounce rib-eye was fine without butter or any fancy sauces to enhance it.

As for that flan, it turned out to be nothing special but was entirely appropriate for sweetly finishing off a meal. Apparently, the plain version sells even better than the Kahlœa version. I suggest choosing plain because I could barely taste the liqueur.

It didn't seem to matter to the regulars at Azteca that those new taquerias have opened in town. No matter that Jarritos soda and aqua frescas aren't available. An absence of freshly made masa antojitos hasn't affected them.

Decor doesn't seem to make much of a difference to those who crowd into Azteca, either. Torn paper glued to the walls cleverly fabricates a faux stone and mortar look. Colorful Mexican paintings and sepia-tint photos added a homey touch.

It's not altogether clear what makes Azteca so popular, but friendliness and a family feel may be one reason. On most evenings, matriarch Sara Sanchez is there delivering chips and salsa to diners. Her son Isaac might be the one affably taking your order. The casual, comfortable ambiance does feel absolutely inviting. Says regular Stephanie Canda, who eats here almost every other week, "We always see the same people (and) the family working here ... They always make us feel so welcome every time we come here."

Then there's reliability. This may not be the fanciest place in town, but it is consistent. You know exactly what you are going to get, in food and in a home-away-from-home atmosphere. Just remember to go early if you want the flan.

Reach Helen Wu at hwu@honoluluadvertiser.com.