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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Wednesday, December 21, 2005

RAISE A GLASS
Indulge this holiday: Find your bubbly buddy

 •  Discover the joys of mincemeat

By Kim Karalovich

Champagnes and sparkling wines add kick to parties, or everyday life, and come in a wide variety.

ANNE RYAN | Gannett News Service

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I've never met a sparkling wine I didn't like, but champagne is, by far, my favorite. Most people who enjoy champagne and sparkling wines wait for a special occasion to pop the cork. Not me — another day and a little thirst is all the excuse I need. The holidays just mean I will be splurging on nicer champagnes (my Christmas present to myself) and more of it.

I have noticed that a passion for champagne and sparklings, as in love and life, hinges on that all-important first impression. And there is a perfect sparkling wine out there for everyone. You just have to find it. Not all sparkling wines are created equal. Every country that produces sparkling wines has its own style. The differences are in the acidity, effervescence (bubble intensity), and dryness or sweetness.

Champagne, which is only from France, ranges from brut (very dry) to doux (very sweet). Brut is most common; a good example is the Veuve Clicquot Brut. I'll use the brut style as a comparison to other sparkling wines from around the world. A brut champagne can be very effervescent, vibrant and acidic with lots of tiny, intense bubbles. It has a dry finish with tart fruit, like green apple or citrus, and lots of subtle flavors like minerals, yeast, toffee and bread. What sets champagne apart from all other sparklings is its acidity and bubble intensity. Typically, the more expensive champagne will have more complexity. Vintage champagne is superior because of its higher acidity levels and bubble intensity.

Sparklings from California and elsewhere around the world do not have the same age-ability of vintage champagnes, because of their lower acidity and bubble intensity. They will never be able to achieve the same qualities of a vintage champagne, hence the lower price. An excellent example of a complex, aged champagne is the very limited Dom Pérignon OenothEque 1990, $275, my favorite.

A California sparkling is made using the same grapes and production methods as champagne. However, the warmer California climate creates sparkling wines that are less dry with more fruit. The riper fruit softens its acidity and its bubbles are slightly larger and therefore less intense than champagne. A wonderful example of a fruit-forward California sparkling is the J Brut, $28.99, from J winery.

Spain's version of bubbly — cava — is made in the same way as champagne but with different grapes. The grapes that are used to make cava are lighter in body, less intense in flavor and lower in acidity and bubble intensity. Cavas are soft and smooth with a hint of fruit and bigger bubbles, yet they are dry with softer acidity — lots of yummy fun at a low price. Try the Segura Viudas Brut, $8.50.

Every party should start with prosecco, Italy's sparkling wine. It is not only affordable but quite delectable and easy to drink. More fruit, such as pear or white peach, comes through, yet it isn't sweet. This wine is not made using the champagne method, so it has less bubble intensity. It is effervescent and not nearly as dry as champagne or California sparkling wines. Try the Zardetto Prosecco, $12.50.

And for dessert, the Moscato d'Asti is a must. This sparkling is a frizzante (a little fizz) with intense peach, apricot and orange blossom flavors, and only 5 percent alcohol. Try the Saracco Moscato d'Asti, $14.50.

This holiday season, enjoy the sparkling wine to fit your taste because, after all, "Life is just a bowl of bubbles."

Kimberly Karalovich is wine consultant and general manager at The Wine Stop, 1809 S. King St.; 946-3707; www.thewinestophawaii.com.