Anytime Grinds
Hawai'i regional cuisine
• Sam Choy's Diamond Head

What’s the story? The Island favorite restaurant has just finished construction of a new kitchen set for TV’s “Sam Choy’s Kitchen.” It’s part of the dining room now and also will be used for cooking classes. This is truly a locally rooted restaurant: Three-quarters of the kitchen crew is either enrolled in, or has graduated from, Kapi‘olani Community College’s culinary program.

What’s on the menu? Some signature dishes have been brought back. Try the ono, shrimp and scallop combination (in a shiitake-mushroom cream sauce with ginger and cilantro pesto dotted on the shrimp), the Ka‘u orange roasted duck, or any fresh fish entree. A new feature is the tapas menu, offering “tapas size” portions (an average-person serving) or “Choy size” (those legendary plates). They’re also doing a special monthly Hawaii Regional Cuisine dinner and weekly Friday night wine tastings (with p¨p¨), an informal hour-and-a-half event at $20 per person.

FYI: 449 Kapahulu Ave.; 732-8645. Dinner: 5:30-9:30 Monday-Thursday; 5-9:30 Friday-Sunday, Sunday brunch: 9:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Reservations strongly recommended for large parties. VS, MC, AX, DC, DS, JCB. Checks accepted. $$$.


Dessert • Anna Miller's 24-Hour Restaurant

Mariebeth Rodrigues serves up strawberry pies at Anna Miller's.

Cory Lum • The Honolulu Advertiser

What's the story? This bustling family-style place serves breakfast around the clock, as well as classic diner fare and local dishes at affordable prices. But what people most often rave about are their fresh and delicious pies, made on the premises. There’s even a five-minute parking area for pie pickups!

What’s on the menu? Fresh strawberry, haupia, lemon meringue, pecan, macadamia nut, custard, cream (several varieties), peach, cherry, apple. … The crusts are flaky, the fillings richly flavored.

FYI: 98-115 Kaonohi St.; 487-2421. Open all day, every day. No reservations needed. VS, MC, AX, DC, DS, JCB. No checks. $.


Drinks and pupu • Ryan's Grill

What’s the story? General manager Tanya Phillips, bar manager David Bradley and senior executive chef Bill Bruhl join forces to create a comfortable, high-energy spot for pau hana drinks, sports-watching, checking out the passing parade at Ward Centre and enjoying pupu.

What’s on the menu? Pupu choices include hot Dungeness crab and artichoke dip with onions and Parmesan cheese, flash-seared ahi with ginger wasabi aioli and, for the health-conscious, Manoa lettuce cups with chicken, pork, shiitake mushrooms and ginger. Great specialty drinks are the Razzatini (Absolut vodka, Chambord, and sweet and sour) and li hing mui margaritas.

FYI: Ward Centre, 1200 Ala Moana; 591-9132. 11 a.m,-1 a.m. Monday-Saturday, Sunday Brunch: 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Reservations recommended for large parties. VS, MC, AX, DC. Checks accepted. $$.


Plate lunch • L & L Drive-Inn

What’s the story? The first L & L opened on Liliha Street 41 years ago. Today, L & L is synonymous with plate lunch and local-style food. There are now more than 50 franchised locations under the guidance of company president Eddie Flores

What’s on the menu? Try the shrimp curry, fried mahi, teri pork chops, spareribs, short ribs, saimin and chili. And we can’t forget the chicken katsu plate, an L & L signature dish. Did we mention the a la carte orange chicken, or the spicy chicken with peanuts, beef with broccoli, and sweet and sour pork? Pass the napkins.

FYI: Multiple locations. Hours vary. No reservations needed. No credit cards. No checks. $.


Espresso • Starbucks

What’s the story? What began as a one-store location in Seattle has now grown to more than 2,000 stores worldwide and, although their rapid expansion has turned some people off, customers keep returning to the place that taught them how to order a tall skinny macchiatto.

What’s on the menu? Espresso-style drinks, Frappucinos, pastries and a comfy place to sit.

FYI: Multiple locations.


Hamburgers • Kua 'Aina Sandwich Shop

What’s the story? Kua ‘Aina (“country jack”) has been char-broiling burgers in the same North Shore Hale‘iwa location for a quarter of a century. Their junior outlet across from Ward Centre, about three years old, is a boon for us townies.

What’s on the menu? Burgers — third- and half-pounders — with lettuce, tomato and carrot slice. They’re big, they’re juicy and smoky and you can get fancy (add cheese, avocado, bacon, etc.) but why tamper with the best? Do not fail to order the shoestring fries.

FYI: Hale‘iwa, 637-6067, 11 a.m.-8 p.m. daily; and Ward Village, 116 Auahi, 591-9133, 10:30 a.m.-9 p.m., Monday-Saturday, 10:30 a.m.-8 p.m. Sunday. No reservations required. No credit cards. Checks accepted. $


Pizza • Pizza Hut

What’s the story? What began in 1958 as a dream of two college students is now more than 10,000 units worldwide (in more than 86 countries), including more than 7,000 in the United States.

What’s on the menu? Pan pizza, the big New Yorker, stuffed crust, thin ‘n’ crispy, and hand-tossed varieties. All the standard toppings to satisfy any meat, cheese and vegetable lover. And they deliver.

FYI: Multiple locations.


Seafood • Nick's Fishmarket

What’s the story? For more than 30 years this Waikiki landmark has been a date-night standard. Executive chef Eugenio Martignago is an old hand at creating delectable and visually appealing treats from the sea. Service is sophisticated and knowledgeable.

What’s on the menu? The blackened ahi sashimi with Cajun spices is a fine starter, as is the scampi in garlic butter. For the entree, what else? Seafood. Try the Norwegian salmon, Hawaiian broadbill swordfish in black sesame seed crust, sauteed opakapaka or grilled mahi mahi.

FYI: 2070 Kalakaua Ave.; 955-6333. Dinner: 5:30-10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday; 5:30-11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Reservations recommended. VS, MC, AX, DC, DS, JCB. Reservations recommended. $$$.


Steak • Ruth's Chris Steak House

What's the story? This venerable, upscale chain serves aged prime and choice cuts of steak grilled at 1,800 degrees. The family of 75 fine-dining restaurants originated in New Orleans. They are now found in 55 cities throughout the United States, four other countries and one U.S. territory. Our Honolulu location at Restaurant Row recently expanded and, we hear, may soon serve lunch.

What’s on the menu? Stick to what made them famous: prime and choice steaks. Order the filet, rib eye, New York strip, porterhouse (for two) or the T-bone. These arrive sizzling hot, glazed with melted butter and beautifully seasoned. Both the menu and the staff are informative about the differences between the steaks. The side dishes are popular and readily serve two: potatoes any way you like them, vegetables such as broiled tomatoes, broccoli au gratin, creamed spinach, or asparagus in hollandaise sauce. The wine list here is exceptional, and they offer some extraordinary choices by the glass.

FYI: Restaurant Row, 500 Ala Moana; 599-3860. Dinner: 5-10 daily. Reservations recommended. VS, MC, AX, DC, JCB. No checks. $$$.


Sushi • Genki Sushi

What’s the story? Genki Sushi is a prime example of generosity and friendliness in a restaurant chain. They offer wasabi and pickled ginger on the counter in help-yourself style and supply as much hot, Japanese-style tea as you like. The gimmick here is a conveyor belt that transports sushi around the restaurant. Genki was the first one in Hawai‘i to introduce the food-parade style of serving. They employ color-coded plates to indicate prices. And they’re affordable, offering enough variety for most of us to satisfy our sushi cravings.

What’s on the menu? Hamachi, scallop, maguro, anago and other fresh sushi are popular. But so are the combination tastes, such as spicy tuna rolls, California rolls, Canadian rolls, seafood salad, tuna salad and tako poke. There’s a take-out counter on the inside, as well as a drive-through area (Kapahulu and Pearl City locations); call ahead for pickup orders.

FYI: 900 Kapahulu Ave.; 735-8889. Lunch: 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Monday-Thursday. Dinner: 5-9 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 5-10 p.m. Fri. No reservations needed. VS, MC, AX, DC, DS, JCB. No checks. $.


Late-night dining • Aaron's Atop the Ala Moana

What’s the story? Aaron’s Atop the Ala Moana, formerly Nicolas Nickolas, offers expansive views of Waikiki and the city from the Ala Moana Hotel’s 36th floor. The tastefully redecorated restaurant offers banquettes and tables, three newly created private dining spaces (including a charming room walled with wine for smaller parties) and a lively club. Aaron’s serves dinner nightly, and there’s dancing from 8:30 p.m. (Ask to be seated away from the dance floor if you want to linger and chat.)

What’s on the menu? Baked oysters a la Francis, topped with a tarragon-Pernod cream sauce and crispy pancetta or Greek Maui wowie salad are nice for starters. The diver sea scallops are outstanding, as is the veal king Oscar, served with a king crab potato cake, asparagus and bearnaise sauce. Servers are knowledgeable and attentive.

FYI: Top Floor, Ala Moana Hotel, 410 Atkinson Drive; 955-4466. Dinner: 5:30-11:30 p.m. daily; late-night menu: 11:30 p.m.-12:15 a.m. Sunday-Thursday and 11:30 p.m.-2:15 a.m. Friday and Saturday. Reservations recommended. VS, MC, AX, DC, DS, JCB. Checks accepted. $$$.

© COPYRIGHT 2000 The Honolulu Advertiser, a division of Gannett Co. Inc.